General Flooring Questions:

Are hardwood floors expensive?

Hardwood floors are much like other floor covering materials in that there are many price points. BR-111 is no exception, with different lines at different price points. But, when you compare the cost of hardwood floors versus other floor covering materials you realize just how inexpensive hardwood floors really are. The average life of carpet could be under 10 years. Do the math with these facts in mind and you will be pleasantly surprised!
 

How does hardwood compare to other flooring materials?

Other floor covering materials simply cannot compare to the natural beauty of hardwood flooring. Hardwood floors outlast and outperform almost any other flooring material. Hardwood floors are just as easy to clean as other floors.
 

How & where do I install the BR-111 products?

Solid ¾” - Nail/Staple down – 15 lb felt paper recommended.
Solid 5/16” & 7/16” -  Nail/ Staple down 6mil poly under-lay required.
Solid 5/16” & 7/16” -  Glue down. Moisture cured urethane only.
Engineered 3/8” & ½” -  Nail/Staple down 6 mil poly required.
Engineered 3/8” & ½” -  Glue down moisture cured urethane only.
Engineered 5/16” - Veneer wear layer. DO NOT NAIL/STAPLE
Engineered 5/16” - Veneer wear layer. Glue down. Moisture cured urethane only.
All Engineered - FLOAT using a leading brand 2 in 1 (moisture barrier) floating floor pad required with leading brand PVA 2 floating floor adhesive.
Solid Floors CANNOT be Floated.
Lock It – Locking system to be installed over 3 in 1 pad (moisture barrier)
 
 
Glue down direct to concrete.

All concrete must be tested for moisture. BR-111 highly recommends the use of a moisture protection system. There are many of these systems now available from the adhesive manufacturers that offer a warranty against moisture intrusion. Please see further questions in the Glue down Solids section.

Appearance & Color Questions

Is every piece of flooring absolutely perfect?

Hardwood flooring is a natural product; therefore defects in flooring can occur in the manufacturing process or naturally as a characteristic of the wood.  All BR-111 floors are carefully manufactured to standards and tolerances.  Hardwood flooring standards allow for up to 5% waste (this may be natural or manufacturing related) based on the original flooring purchase.
 

Will my floor be the same color throughout?

NO - With the exception of the hand scraped Antiquity line BR-111 floors are natural, i.e. - no stain. They carry the full
range of natural shades and tones of the wood species. Wood is a natural material. No two trees are the same; no two pieces are the same, and the same specie can vary based on the geographic area
from which it is harvested. Floors have an overall general color or tone but
within that you will find many different shades and even some extreme lights
and darks. An experienced installer will open numerous boxes at the same time and lay in a random pattern that gives the mixed look with the full range of the natural exotic floor. This is one of the most appealing aspects of an exotic floor. It is truly natural. If the consumer wishes something that is all one tone and all one color then they may be better suited for the stained floor option.
 

Will my floor match exactly the sample in the store?

Not always - Wood is a natural material. Think of the store sample as a small cross section of the total tones and grains in an exotic floor.  It can never be an exact replica of a full floor.  As most of the BR-111
lines are natural, i.e. - no stain the floor will have the full range of grain and tones associated with the chosen species.  Every BR-111 sample carries information on the back such as “No two trees are the same.  No two
pieces are the same.”  It is better to think of the sample as a random assembly of the boards the floor may have.  While a natural exotic floor may have hundreds of subtle tones and grains it is difficult to show that in a smaller sample.  The BR-111 brochures, website and literature all show different photographs that also show the full range of natural color and grain in an exotic floor.  For these reasons a natural wood floor should never be chosen from one or two small hand samples.  It is impossible to get the true look and feel of these
beautiful floors from one or two small pieces.
 

Will my floor change color over time?

Some wood flooring species are photosensitive, meaning they
richen and darken over time with exposure to natural light and air.  This natural occurrence takes place over
a period of approximately twelve months, with approximately 50% of the change taking place in the first three months.  After the initial three months at least half the change has taken place and the rest continues over the next nine months or so.  Species such as  the Brazilian Cherry can come out of the box with light pink and golden tones.  The golden tones turn pink and the whole floor richens and darkens over time to the rich red tones that we normally associate with Brazilian Cherry.  When the boards are first unpacked they can have the softer, lighter tones but after a period of time take on the richer darker natural tones of the species.  These photosensitive species are marked on samples and in BR-111 literature with a small icon of the sun and an
explanation of the natural change.  A good way to point this out is that most of the BR-111 “room scene” photographs are studio shot meaning the wood came directly from a box to the floor and has not experienced the color change.  Therefore the photograph on the back of the sample should indicate the wood in its state straight out of the box –lighter softer tones.  If you flip the board over to view the wood and it has been on display for three months or longer, it will show the richer darker tones that the floors will eventually reach.  It is not like you can sit and watch this change, most people are never aware of it.  It truly brings out the rich tones and grains of the wood flooring for a positive affect. This natural change can not be induced during
production, otherwise we would surely do it.
 

Should I do anything about this natural color change?

Just be aware!  Any area with a throw rug or anything that stops the natural light from getting to the floor will inhibit this change.  During the first three months it may be best to move around your smaller rugs when cleaning so as not to block out the floor to the sun completely.  If the natural ultra violet rays are totally blocked from reaching the floor by the rugs, you may end up with an area shaped like the outline of the rug that is lighter in shade.  That means the other areas have richened and darkened and are more advanced in this natural process.  Do not worry!  Just remove the rugs and let the natural light on the wood floor.  Eventually the entire floor reaches the same point and any outlines or shapes are not noticeable.  During construction, the installer may cover up the floor with the cardboard boxes to protect from the other trades
people.  If they leave any gaps in this protective covering, small areas will be open to natural light and will
begin the color change process.  This is nothing to worry about.  When the protective covering is removed, and the natural light can reach all areas it will all change and eventually blend together.
                                        
Finishes & Re-sanding
 

What is the finish on BR-111 floors?

All BR-111 floors are sold with an Aluminum oxide finish.  These warranties guarantee that the
Aluminum oxide surface will not wear through or separate from the floor. All wood floors scratch and dent.  The harder species of some of the BR111 exotics offer more resistance to denting but eventually all wood floors dent.   All BR-111 products with the exception of the 5/16” engineered allow for the floor to be re-sanded back to raw clean wood the new finish can be applied.  Please refer to the individual product warranties to the length of time these warranties are in place.
 
 

Does a warranty mean that my floor will look exactly the same way for these periods of time?

NO!  The warranties are finish warranties that state the finish will not wear through to bare wood or will not peel off for that designated period of time.  All floors show signs of wear.  All floors scratch and dent.  High traffic areas show signs of wear first.  This can be a subtle change in the gloss level over the years.  Exotic
species are harder.  However, scratches and dents in your wood floor are to be expected.
 

How many times can I sand my BR-111 floor?

The number of re-sands available on a floor is controlled by the skill of the operator on the sanding machine and the amount of wood or wear layer above the tongue.  Because the number of sands depends on the skill level and amount of wood removed during this process, BR-111 cannot guarantee a specific number of sands.  
General expectations for how many times the BR-111 products can be re-sanded are as follows:
¾” Solid – 4 times
5/8” Solid – 4 times
7/16” Solid – 3 times
5/16” Solid – 2 times
3/8” Engineered – 2 times
1/2” Engineered – 2 times
5/16” Engineered – 0 times, this product has a veneer wear
layer and cannot be sanded.
Another option to refresh the finish is the screen.
 

Screening

 

What does a screen mean, and how many times can it be done to BR-111 products?

An option to refresh the finish is the screen.  This is where a screening pad like a plastic steel wool is put on the sanding machine and the finish is "roughed up".  This allows a new finish to be applied.  The new top coats give the floor a fresh new look.  The screening process does not cut into the actual wood, therefore it will not remove any deep gouges and scratches or anything that has gone through all the layers of finish and into the wood.  As this procedure does not cut into the actual wood it can be done as many times as desired.
 

Wear & Maintenance of Your Floor

 

Scratches

 

Will my floor scratch and dent?

All wood floors scratch and dent.  This is the best starting point when discussing the wear of any wood floor.  Yes, a lot of exotics are harder.  Yes the finish used these days is a superior hard wearing finish, but floors will scratch and dent.   It is usually the finish that scratches.  Aluminum oxide scratches show up as fine white lines in the finish. Darker species show the scratches more than lighter
species.  Scratching and denting are not covered in any warranty.  Pets (especially with uncut claws) can and will scratch floors. The scratches, dents, and gouges make up the fine patina that goes with any wood floor. The primary use of wood floor is to be walked upon.  It is not a fine piece of furniture it has a job, a function,
and that is to be lived with and walked upon.  During the course of its life fulfilling this function it
will get many scratches, nicks, and scars, this is inevitable.
 

How do I repair scratches on my floor?

When the aluminum oxide finish scratches it leaves a white
line in the finish.  This is
usually in the top coats of the finish and is an eyesore more than anything.  With the darker Brazilian species in the BR-111 lines a product such as Furniture Touch UP Pen Kits seems to work well. It is typically three ink pens, a light, medium and dark and when used leaves a color in the white scratch helping it to blend in.  These kits are available at most local hardware stores and online.  As with any repairs or touch ups to a floor if you have any off cuts or pieces left over from the installation it is best to practice on them.  If not choose one area of the floor and work with that until satisfied before proceeding.
 

How do I clean and maintain my floor?

By taking a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance, you can expect years of beauty from your new wood floors. The following are examples of the maintenance that will help you
accomplish that. Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and cleaning products found on the accessories page of our website. NEVER wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties.
 
IMPORTANT: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, silicon or ammonia, these will damage the wood floors. Use of these and other such
products will harm the long-term performance of your floor. Keep pets’ nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil, and stains.
 
Place protective felt pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents. Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture, or appliances. Make certain furniture
casters are clean and operate properly (a minimum 1” width is recommended).
 
Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on floor.  Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points such as: Stair landings, room entries, etc. Especially if you have a large family or indoor pets.
Pets.
 

Will my pets damage and mark my wood floor??

Pet’s nails will generally scratch the finish on the floor.  Smaller pets scratch the floor’s finish less than larger or heavier pets.  Try to keep pet’s nails trimmed to combat the scratching situation. 

Site Conditions & Acclimation

 

Acclimation

 

How long should the floor be allowed to acclimate before installing?

Solid hardwood flooring must acclimate for as long as necessary to meet minimum installation requirements for moisture content.  To correctly monitor wood flooring during the acclimation process, the professional will require wood moisture meters, a hygrometer, and an understanding of the local environmental conditions.  They will also need to use the Equilibrium Moisture Content Chart and other information in the BR-111
installation instructions.  A lot also depends on whether the dwelling will be kept at controlled conditions (AC
running in the humid months).
 
Thin solids 5/16” and 7/16” will perform better in controlled environments of 35% to 55% relative humidity and a temperature between 60 & 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Thisis better explained in the installation instructions for these products.
 

Controlled conditions

 

What should the site temperature and relative humidity be at time of installation?

The building must be structurally complete prior to installing hardwood flooring.  All doors and windows installed.  The wet work, concrete, masonry, drywall, and paint must be completed, allowing adequate drying time to not raise moisture content within the building.  HVAC systems must be fully operational at least 14 days prior to floor installation.  Room temperature must be to consistent 60-75 degrees and even more important relative humidity must be controlled between 35-55%.  Maintaining a controlled environment is
paramount to the initial and continued long term performance of the product.  This becomes more vital the thinner the product is.  The 5/16” and 7/16” solids require a controlled environment for best performance.  Please see our installation instructions for more specific instructions regarding this topic

Glue down Solids

 

Can I glue the 5/16" and 7/16" solids directly to a concrete slab?

Yes you can with the use of a concrete sealer to seal the concrete and protect from moisture intrusion. You must also use a MOISTURE CURED URETHANE ADHESIVE as well.  Do not use water
based adhesives with any BR-111 glue down products.   Please see our installation instructions for approved adhesives and sealer systems.
 

Why use a concrete sealer along with moisture cured urethane adhesive?

The use of a concrete sealer will protect and provide a warranty against sub-floor moisture intrusion.  This warranty is supplied by the sealer and glue manufacturer. Moisture emission from concrete slabs can vary from region to region and even within the same region during seasonal changes.  Concrete slabs tested at one time of the year may offer different results at different times of the year due to the amount of rainfall and underground water tables.  In the case of BR-111 thin SOLIDS (5/16” & 7/16”) we always recommend the use of a leading sealer and glue system when gluing directly on or above grade concrete.
 

What are some of the leading brands of concrete sealers that offer a warranty from sub floor moisture intrusion?

There are many leading brand concrete sealers that are used in conjunction with the same manufacturers moisture cured urethane adhesive.  The use of these systems will give a warranty against sub floor moisture intrusion.
 Sub floor moisture intrusion will cause cupping, buckling, and discoloration of the wood floor.  All of the following systems have different installation and job site requirements and offer differing warranties.  The installer should check with the sealer system manufacturers to choose the system they best prefer.

Franklin Titebond 531
Epoxy Moisture Control System www.franklinflooring.com
1-800-669-4583
Bostik MVP (Moisture
Vapor Protection) www.bostik-us.com
1-800-523-6530
 
Sika Primer www.sikausa.com 1.800-933-SIKA
 
DriTac-MCS 7000
Concrete Moisture Control www.DriTac.com  1-800-394-9310
 
BR-111 strongly recommends the use of concrete sealers, especially when gluing thin solids direct to the slab.  Manufacturers of adhesive and sealer systems are regularly changing and improving their products.  We recommend that you check with these manufacturers and their warranties before purchasing.

Use of sealers and glues in engineered glue down to concrete.

 

Does BR-111 recommend the use of concrete sealers when gluing the engineered directly to a concrete slab?

With the engineered products and their plywood base construction offering a more naturally stable product
than the solid the correct answer to the question will depend on site conditions.
 All slabs should be checked for moisture with the use of a moisture meter, calcium chloride test, or similar.  High moisture indications from any test would indicate that the use of a concrete sealer would be best.  It will also depend on the BR-111 product you use.  For instance the BR-111 5/16” engineered is the least expensive most stable of the engineered floors, it is often installed on concrete with no moisture barrier/sealer after testing has been completed.  The other BR-111 engineered products like the 3/8” Engineered and the ½” Engineered are more costly so we again suggest that moisture tests be done with these floors.  If there are any indications of moderate or high moisture a sealer should be used.  Apart from the extra cost the use of a sealer does not harm to the product.  Concrete sealers offer a warranty and are an excellent insurance policy.
 
Types of Adhesive
 

What type of glue should I use with the BR-111 products?

BR-111 only recommends the use of Moisture Cured Urethanes. A list is available on all BR-111
instructions.  DO NOT use water based adhesives or acrylic hybrids.  Moisture cured urethanes are the only acceptable adhesives.
 
Testing for moisture
 

How do I test for moisture in the subfloor and wood flooring?

Wood flooring can be tested for moisture using a quality moisture meter that has been calibrated for the specie being checked.  Plywood, OSB, as well as old wood floors can be checked with the same meter.  Concrete slabs can be checked for moisture using a concrete moisture meter.  The Tramex Moisture Encounter meter is one of the better available and is a good indicative meter.  Another form of testing is a calcium chloride test.  This is a controlled test used to measure the amount of moisture vapor transmission through a concrete slab in a period of 60 – 72 hours.
 
 
Moisture warranty
 

Does BR-111 warranty cover cupping, buckling, discoloration, or any other problem caused by moisture intrusion?

No! BR-111 offers no warranty from any of the above moisture related conditions. These conditions are caused by site related issues such as sub floor moisture intrusion or environmental moisture intrusion.  The correct use of moisture barriers and control of the site environment will go a long way toward avoiding any of these problems.
                                 
                                          
Staple down Solids
 

What underlayment / moisture barriers are required when nailing/stapling solids?

For the ¾” thick solid the use of 15 lb felt paper is recommended.  For the 5/16” and 7/16” thin solids a moisture barrier MUST BE established.  A 6 mil poly must be loose laid, overlapped 18” and taped
with a waterproof tape.  The staple will penetrate the moisture barrier but still offers greater protection
than the felt and rosin papers.  Felt and rosin are not considered moisture barriers.  They are at best moisture retardants.  The thin solids are more volatile than the ¾” solid and therefore must be offered greater protection from possible subfloor moisture intrusion hence the 6 mil poly requirement.
 

Can we install directly to old hardwood floors?

The National Wood Flooring Association recommends that you go over the top of an existing hardwood floor so long as the existing floor is no wider than a 3 ½” face.  It is best to lay the new floor the opposite direction to the existing floor.  Be sure to use all moisture barriers required with the installation of the new floor.  Make sure the old floor is flat and level.  If gluing direct to an old finished floor, ensure the finish is removed or abraded to allow new glue to adhere.
 
Crawl Spaces
 

How should I address a crawl space?

It is essential that all crawl spaces are dry.  Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24”from the ground to underside of joists.  A moisture barrier must be established in crawl spaces using 6 mil poly films and by overlapping and taping joints.  The 6 mill poly should be taped up the walls and gravel or rocks used to weight the poly down.  Crawl spaces can harbor moisture and must be addressed.
  
Engineered
 
Advantages
 

What are some of the advantages of an engineered floor versus a solid wood floor?

Engineered floors can be installed on all grade levels.  Because of the plywood base construction they are more dimensionally stable.  Engineered flooring can floated with the use of a 2 in 1 pad as well as a PVA2 adhesive.
 
 

Wear Layers.

 

What are the wear layers on the BR-111 engineered lines?

In an engineered product the wear layer is the thickness of the "real" wood product glued to the top of the plywood. The BR-111 5/16" Engineered has a sliced veneer wear layer approximately 1/20th of an inch thick.  The 3/8" Engineered and the ½" Engineered have a sawn face wear layer approximately 1/8th of an inch thick.
 
 

Sanding engineered.

 

How many times can I sand my engineered floors?

The number of sands available on a floor is controlled by the skill of the sanding machine operator and the amount of wood or wear layer in the engineered floor.
General expectations for the number of times the BR-111 products can be re-sanded:
3/8" Engineered – 2 plus times
3/8" Engineered – 2 plus times
5/16" Engineered – 0 times this product has a veneer wear layer and cannot be sanded.
Another option to refresh the finish is to screen.  In this process a screening pad like a
plastic steel wool pad is put on the sanding machine to rough up or abrade the
current top coats of finish.  This allows a new finish to be applied.  As this procedure does not cut into the actual wood it can be used over and over. It will not remove deep scratches and gouges
 

Acclimation

 

How long should I allow for on site acclimation of my engineered wood floor before installing?

Engineered hardwood flooring generally does not require the detailed and strict acclimation required for solid wood floors.  The thinner the wear layer the less acclimation required.  However, we do recommend that all installers check the temperature and humidity of the environment which the flooring will be installed.  The engineered flooring should be at a moisture content suitable for the environment which it will be installed.  The “Equilibrium Moisture Content Chart” provided by the U.S. Department of Agriculture is available in our
installation instructions.  This should be used to determine the proper moisture content of the engineered wood floor.
 
 

Floating application

 
 

What is a floating style installation?

A floating floor is where each piece of floor is attached to the next piece of flooring by gluing the tongue and groove together.  The entire floor floats on a pad or underlayment and is not attached to the subfloor in any way.  The weight of the floor holds the floor down. 
 

Can I use the floating floor style of application with solids?

No!  BR-111 solid floors are not designed to float. Any of the BR-111 Engineered lines will FLOAT but the solids DO NOT FLOAT.
 

What are the pros and cons of using a floating style application?

The floating floor system allows you to install over difficult subfloors like gypcrete (acoustical concrete with extreme PH levels that attack glue lines).  Since the underlayment includes a moisture barrier, it is the easiest style of installation to protect against moisture intrusion.  It is easier to install when compared to the full spread glue down application and is the most friendly for the “DO IT YOURSELFER.”   With lines like the BR-111 5/16 veneer faced engineered that you may want to replace or upgrade in 15 to 20 years, it is much easier to remove a floating floor than a floor that has been full spread glued down.  Some people DO NOT like the sound you get from a floating floor; some say it has a hollow sound.  You cannot float through doorways and halls.  Each individual room is an island and for room transitions you must use moldings and transition pieces.  Kitchen cabinets must be installed before the floating installation. 
If installed after the flooring they would anchor the floor and restrict the natural movement of the floating floor.  Of all the BR-111 products the 5/16” engineered is the most commonly installed with the floating installation style.  The nature of this product lends itself towards a floating installation.
 

Can all BR-111 floors be installed with the floating style application?

Solids NO Engineered
YES,  Solid floors are not suitable to float because they have too much movement and are not milled to the
fine precision requirements of the engineered.  (IE. the tongue and grooves are looser than the engineered.)
 

Can I install this floor myself?

BR-111 provides installation instructions for all of our products.  These installation
instructions are designed for the specific product.  A person with hands on skills and an attention to detail
would be capable of installing their own floor.  We recommend that you contact us should you have any
installation questions.
 

Can I staple down all the BR-111 engineered products?

The 5/16” engineered product will NOT staple down.  The veneer wear layer will crimp and dent from the staple gun and you will have dimple marks every time you shoot a staple.  The 3/8” & ½” Engineered lines have thicker wear layers and will both take a staple well.
 
 

Radiant Heat

 

Can I install solids over Radiant Heat?

No!  BR-111 solid floors are NOT recommended for installation over radiant heat systems.  
 

Can I install the BR-111 engineered floor over radiant heat?

Yes if the radiant heat style is hydronic hot water through the tube where the tube is fully encased in concrete or underneath plywood.  Systems where the hot water tube is installed then a plywood joist or cut out laid next to the tube are not suitable as these systems do not allow enough clearance between the top of the hot water tube and the bottom of the floor.  Electric net systems are not suitable.  The BR-111 5/16" engineered products have great success over the mentioned styles of radiant heat. The 3/8" & ½" Engineered product lines also work well with this style of radiant heat.  However the use of a humidifier is recommended with these two engineered lines with thick wear layers. Dwellings without humidifiers will have low relative humidity and will be very dry causing the thicker wear layers in some species of these lines to exhibit face checking.  It is also recommended that the heat be turned on and off very slowly. This will allow the flooring time to acclimate to the new environment.  For any questions on radiant heat and BR-111 flooring please contact our technical services department.